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The Sabre's Guide to Nashville

By Rob Mahini (Vandy-Hoo)

Dec 19, 2005

Ah, Nashvegas! I spent a few good years of my life making a ruckus as a Vandy grad. While I didn't learn too much in class, I did learn a good bit about the campus and the town. The Music City is a great place to visit, so Wahoos should feel blessed about their bowl game destination. Book those tickets and go west, young 'Hoos! (You old ones, too).

For those of you making the trip, block off a few hours around noon on December 30, 2005, for some quality football. If you're flying in and out the same day, Godspeed.

If you're spending a bit more time than that in the Music City (which I recommend), perhaps you're wondering what to do there? Maybe a little guide will come in handy. Well, print out this article and buckle your seatbelts. It's gonna be a rockabilly weekend, my friends!

Getting your Wahoos into town…

If you're driving to Nashville, I'll let Mapquest be your guide. For those of you taking to the air, you'll be flying into the Nashville International Airport (there are a few AirCanada flights, in case you were wondering about the “International” part). Nashville is serviced by all of the major airlines, including cheapie outfits Independence and Southwest. Use airport code BNA when securing tickets.

Now, the game is by downtown Nashville, so I recommend booking a hotel downtown (more on that later.) To get to the heart of the city, you've got several options:

  • You could take a hotel shuttle. If you've reserved a room at a hotel that has an airport shuttle, consider yourself lucky and skip ahead to the next section.

  • You could take the bus. The Nashville Metropolitan Transit Authority has a bus route that serves the airport. Route 18 - Elm Hill Pike/Airport has service to downtown Nashville and departs nine times each weekday and four times daily on Saturday and Sunday. The price for a one-way fare is $1.25, and the schedule for this route is available at the Welcome Center, located on the baggage claim level. Pretty good deal if you're just staying the day.

  • You could take a taxi. There is a flat rate of $22 to get downtown.

  • If you're staying around for a few days, rent a car. It'll come in handy - Nashville is not a public transit-friendly town. I'll let Mapquest guide you to your hotel, but generally speaking, you'll be taking Interstate 40 West to downtown Nashville.

    Where to stash your Al's Idiots wardrobe…

    The game will be in the Coliseum - home to the Tennessee Titans. Across the river from downtown, the stadium rises up like a monument to NFL expansion. Well, not “like” one - it's literally a monument to NFL expansion.

    Anyway, back to my point: I'd recommend staying downtown so that you can be close to the battleground. Here are some good options (your mileage may vary):

  • Doubletree Hotel and Guest Suites (615) 244-8200 - A nice downtown hotel that offers good service. Prices: $125-160

  • Hilton Nashville Downtown (615) 620-1000 - A four star hotel close to key attractions like the Country Music Hall of Fame. Prices: $129+

  • The Hermitage Hotel (888) 888-9414 - The Hermitage is Tennessee's only nationally-rated, five-star hotel in Tennessee, so it's expensive. If you've got some convincing to do with the spouse, here's the place as it's well worth the money (or at least a quick pop-in to admire the lobby.) Prices: $250+

  • Renaissance Nashville Hotel (615) 255-8400 - Another four star hotel that is very convenient to the downtown area. Prices: $125-$215

  • Comfort Inn Nashville (615) 255-9977 - A basic option that is literally across the street from a whole block of restaurants and bars. Situated close to downtown and plenty of cabs available. Prices: approx. $159.

    If you've got the means to travel (or don't mind taxi rides), there are cheaper options near the Vanderbilt campus, which is a 5-10 minute drive to downtown. Here's a few:

  • Courtyard by Marriott (615) 327-9900 or 1-800 321-2211 - My folks stayed here and enjoyed their visit. A few blocks from the Vandy campus. Prices: $92 single/$102 double excluding special events.

  • Days Inn - Vanderbilt (615) 327-0922 - Your basic Days Inn. Offers free local calls and complimentary breakfast. Prices: $60-$90.

  • Holiday Inn Select Nashville-Vanderbilt Hotel (615) 327-4707 - Another standard place with an acceptable Sports Bar serving decent food. Across the street from Vanderbilt and has decent restaurant options within walking distance. Prices: $114-$124.

    Where to get some Southern-style cooking…

    If it weren't for the music, Nashville could be called the “Country Kitchen City” for its many amazing old-style lunch spots. Many are convenient to downtown, while others require a vehicle.

  • Arnold's Country Kitchen at 605 8th Ave. (a little south of downtown) - You can find the best “meat-and-three” in Nashville in this cafeteria-style joint (i.e., a meat dish and three veggie sides). I recommend roast beef or fried chicken, plus creamed spinach, whipped potatoes, and mac & cheese (yes - that's a veggie side in Nashville). The best banana pudding in the world. I'm not exaggerating.

  • Jack's BBQ at 416-A Broadway (downtown by the honkytonks) - If you want BBQ close to your hotel, Jack's is a great bet. Tough to go wrong here, but I recommend the BBQ pulled pork sandwich with a heaping side of mac & cheese.

  • Monell's at 1235 6th Ave. N (seven blocks north of downtown in historic Germantown) - A place for the traditional meat-and-three experience. The southern fare is served up family style, so expect to sit at a table next to people you've never met. Monell's has set daily menus, but every meal includes the skillet fried chicken (mouth watering already, isn't it?) Hey, pull up a chair, meet some locals, and pass the chicken.

  • Silver Sands Restaurant at 937 Locklayer St. (Downtown) - A good place for a cafeteria-style meat-and-two at a reasonable price. Serves breakfast and lunch, but not dinner.

  • Corky's BBQ at 100 Franklin Rd. (Brentwood) - If you've got a car and willing to go on a trip for the best BBQ this side of Memphis, take Interstate 60 West to Brentwood. Corky's serves what you'd expect: delicious BBQ chicken, pork, ribs.

  • Judge Beans BBQ at 123 12th Ave. North (slightly SW of downtown) - Close enough to walk to if you are staying downtown. The Judge is relatively new in town and recently moved to this location. Texas style BBQ with great items like the Shrimp Diablo (Jalapeno stuffed with cheese, shrimp, and wrapped with bacon.) The spicy cowboy beans are a must.

    … or other type of lunch fare …

    Aside from the Southern style cooking, Nashville also has other great lunch spots you can't ignore. There are plenty of chains that you'll recognize, and I won't tell you to avoid 'em. Even those places have their own musical flavor. Heck, I met Tone Loc in the Chili's by campus once (yes, he really talks like that). This truly is the Music City.

    Regardless, let's focus on some of the other lunch locales unique to the town:

  • Rotier's at 122 Elliston Pl. (between Vandy and Downtown) - The “can't miss it” burger joint in Nashvegas. According to legend, this place was one of three burger joints that inspired Jimmy Buffett's “Cheeseburger in Paradise.” No wonder - the grilled cheeseburger on French toast deserves a ballad. Top it off with fried pickles and a chocolate milkshake, and you'll never want to go home.

  • Cheeseburger Charley's at 400 21st Ave. S. (next to Vandy Law School) - If you miss Rotier's (shame on you), visit this staple of my grad school days for a solid burger. You can get in and out of this joint for under 10 bucks with a great burger, tasty fries and a drink. A great selection of burgers - turkey, veggie, bean, buffalo (emu was an option in my day, but I can't promise it for your visit). They boast a great fixings bar to top your burger as you desire.

  • San Antonio Taco Company (“SAT-Co”) at 416 21st Ave S (also next to Vandy Law) - Another Vandy staple, SAT-Co offers well-priced Mexican food. Write on the walls, get mesmerized by the tortilla machine and indulge in the amazing chili con queso. If the weather is nice or the heat lamps are on high, this place offers a large deck with cheap buckets of beer. A favorite of the grads and undergrads.

  • Brown's Diner at 2102 Blair Boulevard (just south of Hillsboro Village) - This place is about as basic as they come (the only beer on tap is Budweiser), but it's a true locals' joint. A greasy spoon with a great burger, Brown's food is cheap and delicious.

  • Loveless Café at 8400 Highway 100 (by Bellevue) - A bit out there, but if you have transportation this is a must for lunch/brunch. Also, this place serves up award-winning country ham and red eye gravy, real Southern-fried chicken, and Nashville's favorite scratch biscuits with homemade preserves cooked right in the kitchen. Seriously, the scratch biscuits here are second to none.

  • McDougal's Village Coop at 2115 Belcourt Avenue (Hillsboro Village) - A no-frills place with a cabin-like feel, McDougal's is a great place for some cold beer and delicious chicken fingers in the heart of Hillsboro Village, just a block south of the Vandy campus.

    Where to have that victory feast!

    After the 'Hoos polish off a plate of gopher, it's time for your crew to have a feast as well. You could always go back to some of the places I listed for lunch. But for a real victory feast, perhaps you'd like to eat like royalty. If so, here's a list for fine dining:

  • Merchant's at 403 Broadway (heart of Downtown) - An amazingly tasty and amazingly expensive restaurant spot right in eyesight of the stadium. I'm sure the menu has changed since my years in Nashville, but I remember them having a mighty fine filet mignon here.

  • Granite Falls at 2000 Broadway (a block north of Vandy) - Come here for very good food at reasonable prices. In my day, they'd give you crayons to color on the paper restaurants use to cover the tablecloth - so it's fun for the kids too. I always loved the rattlesnake pasta. Real rattlesnake? I'll let you find out on your own.

  • Park Café at 4403 Murphy Road (615-383-4409) - I can't recommend this place enough, though it is pricey. It has arguably the best food served in this town. Located in Sylvan Park, this restaurant is actually a former house with a dining area in each room. The food is eclectic and scrumptious.

  • Mambu at 1806 Hayes Street (615-329-1293) - Very close to the Courtyard Marriott on West End. Another favorite that will be recommended by most locals and right off of West End Avenue. A little off the beaten path in an old blue house, Mambu has creative cuisine, a solid wine list and is definitely a place not to be missed. The décor is funky and each room has a different layout. Ask for the seashell-shaped booths in the main dining room for a memorable evening out.

  • Tin Angel at 3201 West End Avenue (615-298-3444) - If you are staying at the Holiday Inn Select on West End, this place is for you. The Tin Angel is a neighborhood bistro on West End with a warm décor and welcoming fireplace. Flavorful, healthy dishes are offered. This is also a favorite spot for a delicious Sunday brunch. Prepare to wait a bit for a table as reservations not accepted. Strong lunch menu as well.

  • The Bound'ry at 911 20th Ave. (around the corner from Vandy Law) - This place is pricey but well worth the pricey-ness if you like eclectic food. Boundr'y specializes in fusion cuisine and has a wide selection. If they still have the cone of different breads, you'll be happy as you wait for your meal. They also have an amazing bar that is frequented by celebs (Mrs. Vandy-Hoo sat a table away from Ms. Ashley Judd once) - no wonder, the bar is stocked with the most unique drinks in the city.

  • The Trace at 2000 Belcourt Ave. (Hillsboro Village) - Also slightly pricey, but very good food and a very trendy atmosphere. Has great appetizers - the best calamari I've probably ever had.

  • Acorn at 114 28th Ave North (next to Vandy) - Another pricey spot, serving up creative nouveau American fare. The ground level contains the main dining room with an intimate bistro seating. On the second floor, you'll find a small bar area offering an ideal spot for waiting 'til they get you a table.

  • Flemings at 2525 West End (also next to Vandy) - While there are plenty of “power” steakhouse chains like Morton's and Ruth's Chris, the place for the steak dinner is at Flemings.

    Other great spots that deserve a mention: Sunset Grille at 2001 Belcourt Ave. (Hillsboro Village) and F. Scott's at 2100 Crestmoor Road (Green Hills). Aside from this list, the next section also has some good dining options - brew pubs and bar food.

    Where to have that victory drink!

    Nashville has an amazing slate of places to entertain yourself. Hitting the honkytonks is a must, there are some great brew pubs to visit, and the night's not complete without tossing darts at the Villager. Bring cash and your spare liver.

  • Robert's Western World at 416 Broadway (Downtown) - There are many great nightspots in Nashville. But honkytonk is a must, and this place is the best. A few blocks down Broadway, you'll find this long narrow place with a long narrow bar, a small stage and boots lining a shelf on the wall (they're for sale). You'll also find true honkytonk and rockabilly, plus a great mix of yuppies and true country folk. Make sure you bring cash because the band will likely be playing for tips (and they'll pass around the jar, so be prepared). As you'd expect, Robert's can get crowded. And, please, stick to the Pabst -anything else is sacrilege.

  • The Station Inn at 402 12th Ave. South (slightly south of Downtown) - Now, if you prefer bluegrass, you'll love this place. In fact, if you're a true bluegrass fan, you've heard of this place already. One of the stops of the bluegrass circuit, this small joint is a must for any music lover.

  • Bourbon Street Blues in Printers Alley (Downtown) - A great place for music in the famous Printers Alley. As the name suggests, this place is going for that whole Mardi Gras theme. Bourbon Street has an interesting dance floor later in the evening, when the beads come out.

  • Lonnie's Western Room in Printer's Alley (Downtown) - Next to Bourbon Street, you'll find this old school Nashvegas joint full of drunk locals and students. This place is packed all night and is usually open the latest. Lonnie's has live singing, and sometimes it's the patrons doing the singing.

  • Legends Corner at 428 Broadway (Downtown) - Another great honkytonk place, conveniently a few doors down from Robert's, Legends is just that: a legend. The most famous country music stars have played here, so pay your respects with a round of PBRs. Again, bring cash to tip the band.

  • The Stage at 412 Broadway (Downtown) - A super-sized honky-tonk with lots of room for big groups. This place gets pretty loud but is always a lot of fun. The drinks are good, but besides chips and peanuts, food is pretty much non-existent. No cover - even on weekends. The best bands play on Saturday.

  • Tootsies Orchid Lounge at 422 Broadway (Downtown). Come here for a Holler and a Swaller. Arguably Nashville's most famous honky tonk, this place gets crowded so true locals use the backdoor accessible via the alley running behind the bars on Broadway. Visit Tootsies, and you can also say you've visited the famous Ryman Auditorium.

  • Bluebird Café at 4104 Hillsboro Pk. (Green Hills) - Well-known, yet understated, the Bluebird is the place where future superstars of all musical stripes were once diamonds in the rough. You'll get different kinds of music here, with a good listening atmosphere for serious music fans. Call ahead for reservations at (615) 383-1461.

  • Bluegrass Inn at 418 Broadway (Downtown) - Another great place for music (genre betrayed by the title), this small place attracts a wide array of people who really get into the music. Have some dollars ready for the tip jar.

  • Beer Sellar at 107 Church St. (Downtown) - The type of place with over 50 beers on tap. If you're in town on Thursday, hopefully they still have two-for-one pitcher night on every one of those beers. Beer Sellar is just that - a small cellar that gets crowded and smoky on weekends. If you get there early and snag a table, it's a good place to post up for the night.

  • Big River Brewery at 111 Broadway (heart of Downtown) - In view of the stadium, Big River is the largest microbrew in town. They have solid bear, the standard bar food, pool tables, and lots of TVs to watch the bowl games. Can't go wrong here.

  • Flying Saucer at 111 10 th Ave. S. (just south of Downtown) - This is the place for those of you who need beer selection. Flying Saucer has a giant wall full of taps and hundred of bottles from around the world. This place has tons of seating, some dartboards and pool tables (in my day), and a chill atmosphere. Some nights they'll have a game on the projection screen.

  • Buffalo Billiards/Havana Lounge at 154 2nd Ave. N. (Downtown) - Downstairs you'll find a cavernous pool hall (which is likely affiliated somehow with the Buffalo Billiards in DuPont Circle). As you'd expect, standard beers and a lot of billiards. Upstairs, Havana tries to be a trendy spot with trendy drinks and music. You'll find a respectable humidor if you'd like a cigar. Expect a cover charge.

  • Mulligan's at 117 2nd Ave. N. (Downtown) - Nashville's authentic Irish bar. You'll find the best Guinness in town and live Irish music playing the Irish bar favorites, plus plenty of games like darts and the like upstairs. Don't leave without trying the Irish sausage.

  • BlackStone at 1920 West End Ave. (close to campus) - This microbrew has amazing beers, very good steaks and pizzas, reasonable prices, and a charming atmosphere. There's even a cozy little library.

  • Bosco's at 1805 21st Ave (Hillsboro Village) - Perhaps the best brewpub in Nashville, with amazing food to boot at fair prices. Their beer menu changes with the seasons, but don't feel bad as you can always visit again. Also offers a great brunch across the street from the Pantry (see below) if you can't stand the wait (my pop recommends it!)

  • The Wildhorse Saloon at 120 2nd Ave. North (Downtown) - Have you ever seen that show on the Country Music channel where cowboys and cowgals are just line-dancing around in a big circle? This is that bar! I've never been in, but it looks made-for-TV clean in there.

  • Red Door Saloon at 1816 Division St (between Vandy and Music Row) - A laid-back joint where you can order giant goblets of beer at the penny-plastered bar, including PBR on tap. You'll have to look through the hole in the floor in the back of the bar for a sight to be seen.

  • Exit/In at 2208 Elliston Place (close to Vandy) - Probably Nashville's premier live music venue, operating since 1971. Usually has non-country rock, and semi-famous groups like The Samples played there in my day. Looks like Cowboy Mouth will be at Exit/In on the 30th.

  • Mercy Lounge at One Cannery Row (just south of Downtown) - If you're looking for some non-country, this is a great place for drinks and music. Check out their schedule at their website.

  • Third and Lindsey at 818 3rd Ave. South (slightly south of Downtown) - Another good place for non-country music, this spot has two shows every night of the week. Serves lunch and dinner. Their schedule is posted on their website too.

  • The Villager Tavern at 1719 21st Ave. South (Hillsboro Village) - Oh man, how many late nights did I spend at the Villager? Not enough. This place is darts central: a narrow bar with four regulation dart boards with the masters nailing bulls eyes, many with their own darts. Come try your luck and the best po' boys in town (the only thing on the menu). You can't go wrong with this dingy, dirty, smoky, hole-in-the-wall. The walls are covered in pictures of patrons and the jukebox will play “Ring of Fire” at least once that night.

    (ps - I've left off the dance clubs. You'll see 'em plain as day all over Downtown. Good luck, tiger.)

    Where to nurse that hangover …

  • Pancake Pantry at 1724 21st Ave (Hillsboro Village) - Along with Rotier's and Roberts, the Pantry rounds out the trilogy of “must visit” food and beverage places in Nashvegas. An award-winning breakfast tradition, the Pantry serves up dozens of different kinds of delicious pancakes. Other great menu items are the omelets, the medley (a hashbrown-eggs-cheese pile of mess), French toasts, and waffles. A magnet for celebrities and everyone else, the Pantry can attract long lines. Please don't be daunted - you're a mere 30 minutes from pancake heaven. Not too long to wait for pancake heaven, if you ask me. (If you get there and can't stand the wait, go across the street to Bosco's).

  • Monell's (see above and only on the weekends) - If you can't make it to the Pantry, then Monell's is a great backup in Downtown. Same family-style seating, this time with an amazing country breakfast: Smoked sausage, country ham, bacon, biscuits & gravy, pancakes, eggs, cheese grits, baked apples, skillet fried chicken, corn pudding and preserves.

  • Brueggers Bagels at 422 21st Ave (across the street from Vandy) - This was Alpine Bagel for my time in Nashville - a favorite of the student body. Alpine had great coffee and solid bagels, plus good sandwiches for a quick lunch. I assume not much has changed but the name, so “Brueggers” would be ideal for a quick bite if you're visiting Vandy in the morning.

    What else is there to do in this town?

    Plenty! Please call in advance in case the posted information below has changed or is inoperative during the holidays.

  • Vanderbilt at 2201 West End Avenue - Now, no school can hold a candle to the University, but Vandy has a charming campus of its own. Located a few minutes south of Downtown, the 330-acre campus is also a national arboretum, with buildings dating back to its founding in the 1870s. Across the street, you'll find the Peabody campus - a registered National Historic Landmark that will remind you of a certain “Lawn.” A hilly area with manicured lawns and quaint buildings, a peaceful self-guided tour (map) through Vandyland would be a nice way to spend a morning before heading to Hillsboro Village or the Opry (see below). Because the students are on break, I'd guess that street parking or garage spots should be plentiful. Go here for directions and parking options.

  • The Grand Ole Opry at 2802 Opryland Drive (Opry Plaza) - The holy site of country music - the famous Opry is still in operation. You can either order reserved seats weeks in advance or buy general admission tickets through the box office starting on the Tuesday of performance week. Admission: $23-30. Evening show on Fridays at 7:30 p.m., Saturdays at 6:30 and 9:30. Call (615) 871-6779 or visit www.opry.com for more information.

  • Opryland Hotel (McGavock Pk.) - Right by the Grand Ole Opry, you'll find this sprawling building with many shops and restaurants coupled with a large conservatory with waterfalls, palm trees, and breathtaking holiday decorations. There is even a small river that offers a fountain show and a boat tour.

  • Country Music Hall of Fame at 222 Fifth Ave. South (Downtown) - Opened after my time, this shrine to country music features miles of exhibits. The well-regarded permanent exhibit, “Sing Me Back Home: A Journey through Country Music,” uses instruments, pictures, and other memorabilia to describe the history of the genre. You'll also find live performances, interactive exhibits, and more. Admission: $12.95. Hours: Open daily 9-5, but check to see if it's open during the holidays. For info call (800)-852-6437 or www.countrymusichalloffame.com

  • Nashville Predators (Downtown) - The Preds play at the Gaylord Entertainment Center, and were getting a good following when I was in Nashville. They actually made the playoffs before last year's strike. Most important for you, they play once over New Year's weekend - January 1st at 7 p.m. against the Mighty Ducks. For info call (615) 255-9600.

  • The Hermitage and Tulip Grove (12 miles east of Nashville) - At this National Historic Landmark, you'll find the restored home of President Andrew Jackson and other historic buildings and gorgeous gardens. Admission: $10. Hours: Open daily 9-5. For more info, call (615) 889-2941

  • Hillsboro Village/Opry Mills - Yep, shopping makes the list, per the suggestion of Mrs. Vandy-Hoo, another Nashvegas veteran. Hillsboro Village is a quaint several blocks just south of Vandy with neat shops, cool boutiques, and some fine watering holes like Bosco's and the Villager. Opry Mills is your standard Mills Corp. outlet mall, but it's obviously next to the Opryland Hotel and Grand Ole Opry, so this stop could conveniently round off a visit to the Opry Plaza area.

    Well, that's the guide! I hope you all enjoy one of my favorite cities. Please crack open a PBR for me and toast them 'Hoos to victory!

    (Editor's note: Nashville resident Rich Young also contributed to this article, adding a few of his favorite places and suggestions. Many thanks to both Rob and Rich.)

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